The basic structure of the information presented here is from a project I wrote for a Technical Writing class I took in 1998.  The paper, titled, "The Beginners Guide to The Art of Homebrewing," is broken down into chapters and I've put most of them here:  Preface, Introduction, History, Legality, Ingredients, Equipment, and Homebrew Process. 

PREFACE

I initially began this project as part of a technical writing assignment, but as I began to put it all together, I found that there is a considerable market for beginner’s reference material on the art of home brewing.  As a relatively new home brewer myself, I thought it only fitting for me to compile only the basic of information pertinent to the first-time home brewer.  Let’s face it, not many of us went out and brewed an all-grain batch our first run out (and had it worth drinking).  But I have also put together a few tips and tricks, recipes, and references, which I feel, will help the beginner get a firm grasp on the concepts and procedures of home brewing.

I would also like to preface this with some thanks to a couple of very important people.  First, to Sean:  a fantastic doctor with whom I have the pleasure of not only working with, but being excellent friends with.  It was Sean who introduced me to home brewing and leant me his years of experience to further my knowledge and technique of home brewing.  Without his friendship, guidance, and assistance I would still be drinking mass-produced beer (though it is a shame to call it beer).  To Kelly:  my wonderful wife who has stood by my all those nights brewing beer and has allowed me (financially) to grow as a home brewer.  She is my first quality assurance check on all my batches and the last to usually tap one off of the keg.  And lastly, to Don “the beer guy”:  my source of supplies, ingredients, professional advice, and the occasional long-winded story.

INTRODUCTION

This text is designed to give those interested in home brewing for the first time, an introduction to the art.  I present a little background, some basic definitions, and a thorough step-by-step process that should prove to be not too difficult to follow.  Lastly, I provide several basic recipes for the beginning home brewer; as well as some import measurements and formulas that I still find myself using today.

This text is a guidebook by which you will be brought into the art form of brewing.  As with any art form, it takes years of practice (and patience) to perfect it.  Even when you think you have gotten your beer as good as it will get, you learn something new and make it better.  And to that end, I tell you…never stop learning, always try new things, don’t be afraid to ask, and always stop to enjoy a good home brew.  Once you acquire that taste for home-brewed beer, you will find that nothing else compares.

Once you have mastered all I have to teach you here, I bid you to seek out other references which present advice on more advanced brewing techniques; including partial mash, and all-grain brewing.  The references listed in the bibliography are excellent starting points.  Enjoy your journey…

HISTORY

A long, long time ago, in a land far, far away an Egyptian housewife accidentally left a basket of grain out in the rain.  She tried to salvage it by drying it (there-by inventing the process of malting).  This malted barley was fair game to the naturally occurring yeast in the air and soon had converted this mistake into the first batch of home brew.  While this scenario may not be absolutely accurate, it is probably not far from the truth.  And soon the Egyptian and Mesopotamian cultures were enjoying the inner peace and god-like feelings associated with consuming alcoholic beverages.  Beer brewing has come a long way from its humble beginnings thousands of years ago, but the process remains almost identical.

Beer developed, as people did, differently in each area of the world; locals used the ingredients that were endemic to their area, they used their local water, and the process by which they brewed was passed from generation to generation.  That is why today, a lager from Germany is considerably different from one brewed in the United States.  Though the style of the beer, and often many of the ingredients and even the process, is the same, they each have their own unique “dialect.”

LEGALITY

Back in 1920, the United States government tried a little experiment called “Prohibition” making it illegal to brew beer.  Well, the American population was not about to hop onto the wagon so quickly and many started to brew their own.  While many of these stills exploded or produced the most rancid of alcoholic concoctions, brewing still went on.  It was a doomed idea from the start and eventually the brewing of beer was made legal again– but someone forgot to include home brewing, which remained illegal until 1979.  Since then, it has been legal for someone of legal drinking age to brew “not more than 100 gallons of beer in a year.”  Though that is for EACH adult in the household.  Home brew is for personal consumption only.  Most states have strict laws concerning selling your brew.

INGREDIENTS

Water:  Over 90 percent of beer is water, yet it is often the most over-looked ingredient.  The water you begin with will add its character (and flavors) to your finished beer.

Malt:  This is a naturally processed form of barley.  Barley is a grain similar in appearance to wheat.  The seeds of barley grass are “malted” in a process where it is steeped in water until it begins to sprout (germinate).  The germinated barley is then slowly dried.  This process develops the sugars and starches that will play a very important role later on in the fermenting process.  The most common form of malt used is malt extract.  This is commercially produced syrup of varying types of malt.  It is easier to use, requires less equipment and experience, and is available in a variety of grains and colors.

Hops:  These green cone-like flowers that grow on vines are used to impart a degree of bitterness to the beer that balances the sweetness of the malt.  Initially used as a preservative for the long transport in casks.

Yeast:  “Brewers make wort, yeast makes beer.”  These simple, single-celled fungi are responsible for the conversion of your simple sugary wort into the complex and flavorful product – beer.

While these are the four basic ingredients, there are many other ingredients, called adjuncts, added to wort/beer to aid in the process.

Specialty Grains:  These are additional malts and other grains added to the primary malt extract.  These are used in a slightly more advanced form of brewing, called partial mash.  Several do not require an additional “mashing” step and are quite easy to use.

Clarifying Aids:  During fermentation, a lot of material becomes suspended within the wort.  Even with the highest attention to detail and highest quality of ingredients, these particles may still be present.  To help reduce their presence, and aid in the clarification of the beer, ingredients, called finings, are added.  These attract the suspend material through molecular charge attraction.  The most commonly used aid is Irish Moss (a seaweed).  One-quarter to one-half teaspoonful per gallon is added during the final 15 to 30 minutes of the boil.

EQUIPMENT

Like any hobby, the equipment you use can range from the simple (and inexpensive) to the complex.  Below is a list of “beginning” supplies that will get you off to a good start with very little expense and excellent results.


BREWING/FERMENTING

Brew kettle:  This can range from an enameled canning pot to a stainless steel boil pot.  It should be able to hold at least 3 gallons, but more preferably 5 to 6 gallons.

Sanitizing solution:  To disinfect all of your brewing equipment.  While there are many commercially available varieties, none compare in cost to plain, household bleach.  Use 2 ounces dissolved in 5 gallons of cold water.

CAUTION: Never use bleach on stainless steel – it will corrode it.

WARNING:  Use bleach in a well-ventilated area and never mix with any other cleaners.

Primary fermenter with lid:  To ferment your batch of beer.  Many beginners start with a 5 to 6 gallon plastic bucket.  It must be absolutely clean inside and have a tight fitting lid.  Another variety is a glass carboy fitted with a rubber stopper.  Many home brewers also use a secondary fermenter.  This is used to allow the beer to further clarify prior to bottling or kegging.  It can also be either a plastic bucket or a glass carboy, though the carboy is preferable as you can visualize the clarity of the beer, as well as being easier to clean and maintain.

Airlock:  To allow carbon dioxide gas to escape during fermentation.

Thermometer:  Used throughout the entire process from measuring the boil temperature, to taking wort readings prior to pitching the yeast.  A floating variety can be easier to use.

Hydrometer:  To measure the specific gravity in your wort and finished beer.  Aids in the determination of when fermentation is complete; as well as, in the calculation of alcohol volume.

Long-handled spoon:  Used throughout the entire process from stirring the wort during boil, to aerating the wort prior to pitching the yeast.  The plastic or stainless steel variety is preferable as it is easier to sanitize than a wooden spoon.

Measuring cups:  Used throughout the entire process from measuring ingredients, to holding spoons off of the counter top.

Timer:  To time your boil and the addition of hops.

BOTTLING

Bottling bucket with tap:  This is a bucket similar to your fermenting bucket, but with a tap installed through the side to facilitate siphoning the beer into bottles.

Saucepan:  To boil and prepare priming solution (corn sugar and water).

Racking cane, tip, and siphon hose:  A “J” shaped rigid plastic tube with a tip that holds the end off the bottom of the bucket.  Used to transfer finished beer from the fermenting container to the bottling bucket.

Bottle filler:  A plastic tube that attaches by means of a siphoning hose to the tap on your bottling bucket.  It has a spring-loaded tip that allows beer to flow into the bottle only when pressed firmly against the bottom of the bottle.

60 twelve-ounce bottles:  Use only returnable-type brown glass bottles or Grölsch-type swing-top bottles.  Do not use screw-top bottles; they cannot be capped properly with the standard homebrew-capping device.

Bottle caps:  These should be new, plastic-lined crown caps that are available at most homebrew supply stores.

Bottle capper:  This handy little device is used to crimp the bottle caps firmly to the tops of the bottles.

KEGGING

Equipment used to keg is not described here, but can be found in most advanced brewing publications, including those listed in the reference section.

THE PROCESS

In the following example, we will use the most basic of ingredients:

     6 pounds of hopped, flavored malt extract (most cans are 3.3 pounds)
     5 gallons of water
     1 package of ale yeast

Malt extract kits come in a variety of colors, flavors, and styles.  Most even come with yeast specifically designed for that kit.

BREWING

All equipment; including fermentation bucket, lid, etc. should be thoroughly sanitized in a bleach solution, then rinsed in hot water to remove any residue. 

WARNING:  Use bleach in a well-ventilated area and never mix with any other cleaners.

STEPS:

1.   Add the contents of the malt extract to your boil pot.  Soaking the cans in hot water for 10-15 minutes prior aids in removing the thick syrup.  Rinsing the cans and lids with boiling water ensures that all the contents wind up in the boil pot and not the trash.

2.   Add 2 gallons of water to the pot.

3.   Stir the mixture thoroughly before applying heat.  Any extract lying on the bottom of the pot may burn and will produce a burnt/nutty/caramel flavor in your finished beer.

4.   Bring this solution to a boil, stirring continuously.

WARNING:  Never leave the boiling wort unattended.  It will undergo a process by which the proteins in the extracts will become suspended in a thick creamy head.  A boil over is commonplace if the boil pot is too small.  If the solution appears to be about to boil over, remove from heat, add a small amount of cold water, and slowly return to heat.

            5.   Boil the solution for 15-30 minutes.  This will ensure a thorough mixing of the solution, as well as allow proteins
                     and tannins to coagulate and resuspend within the wort.

6.   Add 3 gallons of cold water to your primary fermentation bucket.

7.   Carefully add the hot wort to the primary fermentation bucket.

8.   Using the same spoon you used to stir the boiling wort, stir the contents of the bucket to ensure adequate mixing of the wort and cold water.

9.   While the wort is cooling, rehydrate your yeast in a cup of 100º F water.  Ensure the cup is covered to prevent wild yeast from settling into the container.

10. Allow the temperature of the wort to cool below 100º F.   Ensure the bucket is covered to prevent anything from settling into the wort.

11. Measure the specific gravity of your wort.  This is the “original gravity.”  Record it, and then correct it for temperature.  You will use this measurement later to calculate the alcohol volume of your beer.

12. When the temperature of the wort is below 100º F (ideally at 70-80º F) you can “pitch” (dump) your yeast into the bucket.

13. Tightly secure the lid on the bucket.

14. Fill the airlock with water and insert into the lid.

FERMENTING

Store your primary fermentation bucket in a cool, dark area (preferable 60-75º F) for 7-14 days to ferment.  Fermentation is nearly complete and the beer ready to transfer when the bubbles seen in the airlock are less than once every minute.  Though this can be confirmed by taking sequential specific gravity readings over several days to ensure no change in noted.

Transferring your beer to another container, a secondary fermentation vessel, will aid in clarifying the beer.  This “secondary fermentation” stage usually lasts 7 to 10 days longer.

All equipment; including secondary fermentation bucket, lid, racking cane, etc. should be thoroughly sanitized in a bleach solution, then rinsed in hot water to remove any residue.

WARNING:  Use bleach in a well-ventilated area and never mix with any other cleaners.

Rack your fermented beer from your primary vessel into the secondary vessel using a racking cane with attached tip and siphoning hose.  There are many methods to start the siphon flowing, though the most sanitary method is through the use of a syringe to draw a vacuum on the hose.  You can also fill the siphoning hose with water, place your clean fingers over each end, attach to the cane, and then bring the open end into the receiving container.  Ensure the receiving container (secondary fermentation bucket) is below the level of the bottom of the fermentation vessel.

CAUTION:  Do not aerate the beer as it is being transferred.  Doing so will result in oxidation.

Prior to bottling, rack off enough beer to take a specific gravity reading with your hydrometer.  Also take a temperature reading using your thermometer.  Use these two measurements, in conjunction with the original gravity to compute the alcohol percent using the formulas listed in Appendix B.

BOTTLING

Whether you choose to rack your fermented beer into a secondary fermentation vessel for additional clearing (7 to 10 days), or bottle it right away is a personal preference; but will result in cleaner tasting, clearer beer.  Once you have finished, it is time to package your beer into bottles.  Whether you are using bottles that will be capped or swing-top style bottles, the process is basically the same.  Ideally you should use brown bottles to block the harmful ultraviolet light that exist in sunlight and fluorescent light.  This leads to a chemical reaction with hops resulting in a skunky taste and aroma – sometimes after only a few minutes exposure.

Bottles that are to be used should be cleaned and sanitized prior to use.  First, soak off any labels on the bottles (unless you like to use commercial brewery labels).  An overnight soak in ammonia will usually do the trick.  Add a cup of household ammonia to 2 gallons of cold water.

WARNING:  Use ammonia in a well-ventilated area and never mix with chlorinated cleaners.

Then, thoroughly clean the inside of the bottles.  A bottle brush is ideal for getting all the way to the bottoms.  Finally, sanitized your bottles using either a bleach soak, followed by a thorough rinsing in hot water to remove any residue, or you can use your dishwasher if it has a sanitizing rinse.  Once cleaned, ensure that nothing enters the bottle.

WARNING:  Use bleach in a well-ventilated area and never mix with any other cleaners.

All equipment; including bottling bucket, racking cane, etc. should be thoroughly sanitized in a bleach solution, then rinsed in hot water to remove any residue.

STEPS:

1.   Prepare your priming solution:  Boil ¾ cup of corn sugar in 16 ounces of water for 5 minutes.  Add this priming solution to your bottling bucket.

2.   Sanitize your caps (or swing tops) by boiling them in water for 5 minutes.

3.   Rack your fermented beer from either your primary or secondary fermentation vessel using a racking cane with attached tip and siphoning hose.  There are many methods to start the siphon flowing, though the most sanitary method is through the use of a syringe to draw a vacuum on the hose.  You can also fill the siphoning hose with water, place your clean fingers over each end, attach to the spigot, and then bring the open end into the receiving container.  Ensure the receiving container (bottling bucket) is below the level of the bottom of the fermentation vessel.

 CAUTION:  Do not aerate the beer as it is being transferred.  Doing so will result in oxidation.

            4.   Once the beer is in the bottling bucket, attached the siphon hose to the spigot on the tap.

5.   Attached your bottling wand to the other end of the siphon hose.

6.   Open the spigot and place the bottling wand into the bottle.  Press firmly down and allow the beer to completely fill the bottle.  When you remove the wand, there should be about 1 inch of air space at the top of the bottle.  If you over-flow the bottle and spill your beer, don’t cry – just don’t do it again.

7.   Place a sanitized bottle cap atop the bottle and cap with your bottle capper.

8.   Label or mark your bottle caps to indicate what kind of beer is in the bottle.  I recommend not using labels on the bottles, as you then have to repeat the ammonia soak prior to using the bottles again.

9.   Store the bottles upright in the dark at room temperature (preferably 55-75º F) for 7 to 14 days for proper carbonation.

10. After about 5 to 6 days the beer should start to clear and any remaining yeast should have settled to the bottom of the bottle.  At the same time, that same yeast is fermenting the small amount of priming sugar you added and is carbonating the beer.  After 7 to 14 days the beer should be carbonated and ready to drink.

11. Chill the beer to your preferred drinking temperature (Lagers, Ales, and Wheat beers are best at 45-50º F; while most Stouts are served at 68º F) and get ready to drink.  But wait a minute.  There is something you should know…there will be an unavoidable sediment of yeast on the bottom of each bottle.  It is important that you pour the entire bottle slowly, in one smooth motion, and leave the last ½ inch in the bottle.  If any of the sediment does get into your glass, don’t worry, it won’t hurt you, but will impart a yeasty “bite” to the flavor.

12. Finally, slightly part your lips as they touch the glass.  Let the beer flow slowly into your mouth then swallow.  Be sure to smile when you drink your beer.

KEGGING

The process of kegging is not described here, but can be found in most advanced brewing publications, including those listed in the reference section.